Jaisalmer to Jodphur

We left the Secret House Hotel in Jaisalmer at 6.00am this morning in a battered tuk tuk for Jaisalmer Railway Station.  It was bumpy and chilly and we had to lean over the back seat to hold onto our luggage as there was no tailgate.  I was expecting chaos and in fact the station was fairly calm.  It turned out that our 6.45 train was coming from Jodphur where it was then scheduled to return at 12.45pm.  It wheezed slowly out of the gloom with a big headlight shining just before 7.00am and finally set off about 7.20.

It’s our first Indian train and we travelled 3 a/c, which basically means compartments comprising eight berths, six in two tiers of three and one tier of two berths.  But, not being an overnight train the berths don’t appear to be allocated so the idea is the middle tier berths are folded down making room for everyone to sit on the lower berths.  Well maybe that’s the idea, but the reality is a bit more of a free for all.  But folks are patient and polite on the whole.  About two hours down the line we passed a huge army camp complete with tanks milling around and old canvass ridge tents and a mass of squaddies boarded, causing more confusion and examination of tickets.  At this point a young American couple realised they were in the wrong coach and sleepily decamped down the corridor.  They looked tired and stressed and Sue told me the girl was complaining of the runs.  Sue is not too well either, having a very bad cold and cough and was able to tuck herself up out of the way in one of the vacant upper berths.

It’s warming up in the carriage as the sun gets up and the landscape is beginning to change.  The arid scrubland dotted with the odd camel is being replaced by more fertile countryside including the occasional field of crops.  So far my first impression of the Indian Railways has been slightly better than expected, our internet booked tickets worked fine and the carriage is comfortable enough, although so far there is no sign of anyone coming round to take orders for food or drinks, which I thought was supposed to happen. 

OK just arrived at Phalodi Junction, which I guess is over half way on our six-hour scheduled trip.