In late November we had our first conventional holiday for years when we got a cheap Ryanair flight to Lisbon and stayed for a week in a pleasant city centre hotel.  It was the first time for both of us in mainland Portugal and our days were occupied by leisurely breakfasts, sightseeing and big dinners.  I became an instant convert to Pastel de Nata, the delicious Portuguese custard tarts and we both really enjoyed the food in general. We navigated the city by tram and underground and on foot.  We've both always enjoyed pavement pounding as it's down the backstreets and byways that you really to get to know somewhere, sometimes too well.  Of the several museums we visited the one that left the most lasting impression was the Museu do Aljube Resistência e Liberdade.  Located in a former Bastille-like prison and at one time a home for the secret police, it's dedicated to the history of the Salazar regime, which had many similarities to Franco's Spain. Looking back...