We're coming to the end of our stay in Kerala and this image, which I took in a small village in the Backwaters yesterday, sums up some of my impressions.  Che is everywhere here along with images of Marx and Lenin on the CPI.M (Communist Party of India [Marxist]) banners and flags.  I've no idea how Marxism co-exists with Hinduism, Islam and Christianity.  For many of the devout maybe Che is just another member of the pantheon of local gods. After our first three days in the cockroach infested tin box we moved to the delightful Raheem's residency next to Alleppey beach.  I had the pleasure of running barefoot in the sand there most mornings and we would often take a stroll on the seashore.  It's a busy place with people casting nets from the beach, fishing inshore on small rafts and just enjoying the fresh air and the sea.  Often while on my early morning run I'd come across the odd bloke squatting in the sand having a shit while smoking a cigarette a...

On 18th January we got a taxi from Fort Kochi to our homestay on the backwaters where our driver was incredibly patient while we tried to find the place, which turned out to be a cute little tin box with a verandah facing one of the main canals into Alleppey.  It was great being able to watch all the boats going in and out of town, just a shame about the cockroaches. On our first full day we hired a local boatman to paddle us around the nearby canals for a few hours and this really was a great way to see some of the small canals and experience the sights and sounds of daily life here, albeit it feels a bit intrusive to be paddled past someone trying to do their washing or having a quiet shave in the canal outside their house. Many of the canals are choked with vegetation and I helped our boatman paddle through some of the worst of it, where we encountered this egret who seemed to be trying to chase us off his territory.  The trip ended on a slightly sour note as the...

After our hectic time visiting some of the major tourist destinations in North India we fled to the South by plane from Varanasi to Kochi via Bangalore.  Our posh hotel, the Xandari Harbour in Fort Kochi was pretty much what we expected with amazing views over the harbour and most days we strolled around the town taking in the ambiance.  After the North it was good to be in a warmer, more relaxed atmosphere with much cleaner air, so that for the first time in ages I felt I could actually breathe in deeply.  It makes me worry that there's an air quality crisis in the North of this country that is going largely unreported and practically everyone we met had a cough. The streets of Fort Kochi reminded me a little of Galle in Sri Lanka with its old colonial vibe, which I have to admit I rather enjoy.  But Fort Kochi is actually more run down and while some buildings are being salvaged there are a lot more that are approaching the point of no return.  Near the ...

We had an uneventful trip to Varanasi via Delhi, although it was strange to have a taxi driver point out the India Gate yet again on our ride from the railway station to the airport.  The journey from Varanasi Airport to our hotel however took ninety gruelling minutes, much of it inching through the insane traffic in the City centre.  Sue needed to rest, but that evening I had a stroll along the Gats and took this photo. On our first full day in the City we took a long walk through the centre and along the major Gats before returning exhausted to our hotel, a pleasant and more or less tranquil spot in the heart of the mayhem.  On day two we visited the run-down but fascinating Hindu University museum before again walking the Gats back to the hotel.  Both trips were broken by lunch at the Dolphin rooftop restaurant. What can you say about Varanasi that hasn't already been said?  Actually, it was all the stuff that has been said that was the problem....

The fog we hit at Bharatpur and its effect on the trains worried me, so I checked out our later bookings only to find that our Agra to Varanasi overnight train had been rescheduled to not stop at Agra.  After some furious checking on the internet I managed to get a refund and book new trains and flights.  After the Birder's Inn we then took a taxi to our hotel in Agra, arriving in the still fog bound city before lunch on 4th January. Our approach to the Taj Mahal was eliptical.  That afternoon we attempted to walk from our hotel in search of a view, but ended up getting hot, bothered and tired as we tramped the dusty traffic choked streets, before getting an auto rickshaw back.  On our walk through the dirty back streets of Agra we saw the most incredible squalor, including at one point a small herd of pigs wallowing in the waters of an open drain in a crowded slum.  On the 5th we visited Agra Fort which should have a fine view of the Taj, but the fog st...

The third train of our trip was a luxurious Exec Chair car from Jaipur to Bharatpur.  Comfy seats, tea, newspapers and breakfast with mainly foreign fellow travellers as dawn broke over Rajasthan.  Everything was going well and then we hit the fog and the train slowed to a crawl. We arrived in the small town of Bharatpur to find it shockingly cold and damp, but our hotel, "the Birder's Inn" recommended by our friend Subash was very welcoming and next morning we touched base with Vishnu and Jitender, the two rickshaw driver/guides he recommended, who gave us two excellent days birdwatching while transporting us along the the paths in the National Park.  Highlight of day one was a pair of Sarus Cranes. Over the two days we saw an incredible variety of birds and other wildlife including deer and water buffalo paddling through the wetlands.  The Kingfishers were one of my favourites and the park is home to three different species.  In the evening the hote...

We had six days in Jaipur arriving tired and confused after our train from Jodhpur was three and half hours late.  At the station we were bombarded with touts looking for our business but eventually found a prepaid taxi stand where our charming old driver took us to our airbnb via a few 'phone calls to Payal the owner. I'd been expecting Jaipur to be more urban and sophisticated than the cities to which we'd recently been and in some ways it is, but the noise and dirt were still overwhelming.  We visited the City Palace on our first full day, where I pictured this pigeon happily perched in a chandelier and as ever we had to force our way through the crowds.  Payal and Anurag our hosts were charming and Anurag took me out to the Central Park jogging path on a couple of mornings and we also took Payal's cooking class one afternoon, which was a really good introduction to Indian cooking techniques. Payal is a very knowledgeable guide to Indian cookery and cultur...